15.08.12 the Alps!

15.  The Alps! But first! A quick stop in Eisenstadt, the City of Iron, a major hold of the Esterházy’s. Here spent Haydn about thirty years, working on music as the Kapellmeister and house musician for the Esterházy’s. The main church in Eisenstadt is now called Haydnkirche, and is shaped to resemble a mountain. We were lucky enough to get a tour through the church, and climbing through there are 30+ moments where people are meant to stop and experience a part of Jesus’ ordeals before his final crucifixion. The path led us inside, up the church, and then down the far end into the actual chapel. Yet another amazing organ inside. One of these days I will have to hear the organ played. When we left back through the way we came, I was surprised to hear that from the top of the church you could see out to Hungary. I like that so many churches had alternative uses as early warning signs to their kings, even if sometimes they would have no worry of being burned down. Religion played an active role in warfare, not just standing at the sidelines or trying to heal people but warning of attacks and likely allowing troops inside to fire from within. 

Afterwards we made our way to a Jewish museum, where we learned about the Jewish community within Eisenstadt. After the expulsion of Jews from Vienna under Leopold I (to acommodate his wife’s explanation of their failures at conceiving), the Esterházy’s were quick to catch on that accountants and bankers were still needed for the empire, and so allowed a Jewish community to flourish within Eisenstadt under Esterházy protection. This community lasted until 1938 when the Nazis expelled them after the Anschluss. Eisenstadt had not only a Synagogue but also a Mikveh and Rabbinate. Our guide also showed us the Jewish graveyard, with some tombstones dating back to the 1600’s, although I couldn’t get close enough to hear what he had to say.

Later, after getting some surprisingly good food (what the Austrians call ‘lights’ - kidney, lung, and liver), we got back on the road towards the Alps. The gondola up was hilarious, as a couple of the girls could not handle heights, and I was worried one might actually puke. I made sure to get some good pictures of them. The rest of our day consisted of a quick hike, a precursor to the next day, where we found yet another cross planted, to remind the religious that this world is a gift, and to transform the world for them once again into something holy. I really wish a Catholic would have been in our class to get their impression on everything. That night, a small group of us snuck off from the drunkards inside to have a nice drunkard night hike. In the warm Summer night we sat on the grass at the top of the Alps and watched the night sky, more full of stars than I’ve ever seen back home.